La Granja de Oro, moderate. If you want to eat south-of-the-border food, this is the place to go. The cooking is Peruvian, which means no nachos or enchiladas. The crowd is mostly Spanish-speaking, but there is no problem ordering. A guitar and vocal combo plays on Fridays and Saturdays between 10 PM and 2 AM.

Good appetizers are the tamale with chunks of fried pork, avocado stuffed with chicken, sautéed marinated octopus with garlic sauce and broiled potatoes, and the stuffed potato--mashed potatoes filled with sautéed beef, rolled in seasoned flour, and deep fried. Among main courses, broiled rotisserie chicken is a good bet. So are the steaks, cut thin but with abundant flavor. The mixed grill with chicken, pork, beef, beef heart, sausage, and fried potatoes is very good and for $15.95 is large enough for two. Fish and shellfish are well prepared--try the saltado de mariscos, a mélange of sautéed shrimp, squid, and scallops in a tomato sauce served with fried potatoes and rice. The margaritas are excellent, and most beers are from South America.