100 Best Restaurants 2009: Corduroy
Comments () | Published February 1, 2009
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Address: 1122 Ninth St., NW, Washington, DC 20001
Phone: 202-589-0699
Neighborhood: U Street/Shaw, Downtown
Cuisines: Modern, American
Opening Hours: Open for dinner Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 PM.
Nearby Metro Stops: Mt. Vernon Square/7th St.-Convention Center
Price Range: Expensive
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Kabocha-squash soup with cheese crisp; red-snapper bisque; duck-egg-and-leg salad; lamb loin with garlic crépinette and creamed spinach; Muscovy duck with fig sauce; chocolate tart with caramelized bananas; house-made ice creams.
Price Details: Expensive; entrées $20 to $32.
Special Features:
Valet Parking Available

No. 19: Corduroy

Cuisine: In an age of look-at-me chefs, Tom Power is as much a throwback as his Johnny Unitas–style hair. He eschews experimentation and showing off in favor of simple, true flavors—from exceptional soups to hand-rolled pastas to unfussy preparations of fish, seafood, and game.

Mood: Removed from its charmless space in a Sheraton hotel to a townhouse, the restaurant now exudes quiet sophistication, with warm lighting and subtle Asian accents. Power dislikes music, thinking it a distraction from the food. To those fed up with the brassy, noisy new restaurants that now dominate downtown, his policy will come as a relief. But sometimes the room is more hushed than peaceful.

Best for: Diners alienated by forced juxtapositions and bewildered by ingredients they’ve never heard of; anyone seeking a leisurely, elegant meal.

Best dishes: Rouge Vif d’Temps–pumpkin soup, a silken, lightly sweet broth over a small mound of minced bacon; snapper bisque; salad of duck egg and duck-leg confit; roast chicken with shallots and arugula; pan-roasted duck with fig sauce; pepper-edged, seared bigeye tuna with sushi rice; tarte Tatin of local apples; pistachio bread pudding.

Insider tips: The new bar menu offers some of the area’s best cooking at a fraction of the cost of the upstairs dining room.

Service: •••

Open Monday and Saturday for dinner, Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner.

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 02/01/2009 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews