100 Best Restaurants 2009: Volt
Comments () | Published February 23, 2009
Best Breakfasts 2012 100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants 2012 100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Volt
Address: 228 North Market St., Frederick, MD 21701
Phone: 301-696-8658
Neighborhood: Frederick
Cuisines: Modern, American, Breakfast
Opening Hours: Open for lunch Wednesday through Saturday noon to 2:30. Open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday 5:30 to 10. Lounge open Wednesday through Sunday noon to close. Open for Sunday brunch 11:30 to 2:30
Wheelchair Accessible: Yes
Price Range: Expensive
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Beets with light goat-cheese mousse and dehydrated beet cylinders; a house-made charcuterie plate; artisanal-goat-cheese ravioli with a mix of chanterelles and corn; lamb two ways with North African flavors (eggplant, ras el hanout, and lentils); butter-p
Price Details: Starters $8 to $18, main courses $21 to $32, five-course tasting menu $69, seven-course $89.
Special Features:
Wheelchair Accessible

No. 15: Volt

Tasting of beets at Volt.

Cuisine: Returning to his hometown of Frederick to open a restaurant in a renovated mansion, former Charlie Palmer Steak chef Bryan Voltaggio exchanged a beefhouse aesthetic for modish plates full of artful detail and savor.

Mood: Locals gather in the swanky bar with caramel-leather couches, while the gallerylike dining room fills up with couples and foursomes. The spacious chef’s dining room, where tasting menus—five courses $69, seven courses $89—are served, is high-energy, with Voltaggio and his busy staff on view in the open kitchen.

Best for: A celebratory meal; an important date; drinks and nibbles with friends in the lounge; lunch or dinner after shopping in downtown Frederick.

Best dishes: Sweetbreads with caper powder; yellowfin-tuna tartare with drizzles of chili oil; oysters on wheat-beer sorbet; an old fashioned with house-made bitters and muddled cherries; butter-poached Maine lobster; lamb loin with merguez sausage, lentils, and mustard greens; chocolate-hazelnut pavé with frozen hazelnut custard; “local fall apples,” a multipart dessert including apple butter with cinnamon doughnuts and caramel frozen custard.

Insider tips: The $14 bar lunch gets you three picks from a menu that includes an Absolut martini and a grilled lamb burger with bleu cheese. Parking is free in the lot next door on weekends and after 5 weekdays.

Service: *** (three stars).

Open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner.

See all of 2009's 100 Best Restaurants

Subscribe to Washingtonian
Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 02/23/2009 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews