Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly, Weekend Brunch, Outdoor Seating, Breakfast
Only the top 40 restaurants were ranked in 2011's Best Restaurants list.
The allure of this place is not only its charm—the umbrella-topped patio evokes a Parisian bistro—but also its devotion to the pleasures of canonical French cooking.
The menu, devised by three-star Michelin chef Antoine Westermann and executed by protégé Angelo Galang, is a display of quiet excellence. A bowl of mussels—the best in town—and a roast chicken are reminders of the power of a simple thing done exceptionally well. Superior shopping and technical rigor undergird everything, elevating an otherwise ordinary square of roast cod with vegetables and transforming a humble crop of watercress into a soup of stunning color and refinement.
Dessert is another reminder: In an age when chefs are bent on proving that pie can be deconstructed, nothing satisfies quite like those sturdy classics—crème brûlée, profiteroles—that the French bequeathed us.
Also good: Pork rillettes with toasts; onion soup; medallions of veal with olives, hazelnuts, and ratatouille; country pâté; sous-vide roast-beef sandwich with cilantro crème fraîche (lunch only); side of hot, buttered tagliatelle; mille-feuille, a cream-filled, layered pastry.
Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Expensive.