100 Best Restaurants 2011: Komi
Comments () | Published December 28, 2010
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Address: 1509 17th St. NW, Washington, DC 20009
Phone: 202-332-9200
Neighborhood: Dupont Circle, Downtown
Cuisines: Modern, Greek/Mediterranean, American
Opening Hours: Tuesday through Saturday for dinner.
Nearby Metro Stops: Dupont Circle
Price Range: Very expensive
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Required
Best Dishes Mascarpone-stuffed dates; scallop with truffle emulsion and black truffles; spaghetti with sea urchin; roast suckling pig; baby goat; lamb neck
Price Details: Dinner menu, $135 per person.

Only the top 40 restaurants were ranked in 2011's Best Restaurants list.

Washington’s food scene has come full circle: One of the best things on the menu at the best restaurant in town is . . . a half-smoke? But this is a half-smoke unlike any other, a wonderfully spicy and greaseless sausage tucked into a griddled, buttered bun and topped with ramp relish. The sommelier pairs it with an IPA.

The cooking coming out of this Dupont Circle rowhouse might taste like a four-star restaurant’s, but the place doesn’t feel like one. Decor means a few wrought-iron sconces. Servers joke with customers, laugh with ponytailed chef/owner Johnny Monis in the kitchen, and sneak sips of wine—yet they’re among the smartest and most attentive in the city.

There are just 12 tables, and the only dining option is an 18-to-22-course dégustation for $125 a person (soon rising to $135). There’s no menu. The sole decision customers make is whether to get the $68 wine pairing. (The restaurant is happy to let couples split it.)

Meals begin with a parade of bites, which mostly highlight raw fish—king-salmon belly with shiso sorbet and candied pine nuts, creamy-sweet sea urchin with mustard butter and potato bread—and show off Monis’s imagination and precision. The plates gradually get bigger until reaching a glorious crescendo: either spit-roasted baby goat or a bronze-skinned leg of suckling pig. Both are served communally, straight from the oven, with pita and such accents as hot sauce, oregano salt, and tzatziki. Basically, it’s the makings of a gyro. But as with that half-smoke, it’s unlike any other.

Also good: Scallop tartare with beet and wasabi; sliced scallop with red quinoa; mascarpone-stuffed date; rice-pudding arancini with sweet-potato marmalade. Monis is apt to throw, say, a goat-liver ragu into the mix, which might challenge some diners.

Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner. Very expensive.

>> See all of 2011's Best Restaurants

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 12/28/2010 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews