100 Best Restaurants 2011: Mannequin Pis
Comments () | Published January 20, 2011
100 Best Restaurants (2011)

Mannequin Pis
Address: 18064 Georgia Avenue, Olney, MD 20832
Phone: 301-570-4800
Neighborhood: Olney
Cuisines: Belgian
Opening Hours: Open Monday through Thursday 5 to 9:30, Friday and Saturday 5 to 10:30, Sunday 11 to 2 (brunch) and 5 to 10:30.
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes homey carbonnade (Flemish beer-braised beef stew); rump steak and fries; roast chicken; seasonal game specials.

Only the top 40 restaurants were ranked in 2011's Best Restaurants list.

Except for its setting in a strip mall with a sushi bar and a Mexican takeout, this 11-year-old spot feels as if it were plucked from a cobblestone street in Brussels. The tiny, sunflower-yellow space is plastered with colorful Belgian-beer signs and abstract art, servers bustle between tables, and customers buzz their way through a lengthy brew list.

Although much of the menu is devoted to 17 preparations of steamed mussels, other dishes are worth exploring. The mostly cold-weather fare makes liberal use of butter, cheese, and potatoes, but strong flavors emerge, too. House-made sausages and bacon-wrapped pork loin are good matches for the beer, and the well-versed staff can design a progressive pairing. Best of all, when the bill comes, it feels like a bargain.

Also good: Wild-mushroom fricassee over toasted bread; house-made pheasant sausage with wine-braised sauerkraut; Red Devil mussels, spicy with horseradish and harissa and served with skinny fries; beef stew; bread pudding with raisins and whipped cream.

Open daily for dinner. Moderate.

>> See all of 2011's Best Restaurants

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/20/2011 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews