When Yannick Cam is on, culinary nirvana ensues. After a rocky ride helming several DC restaurants, Cam has settled into a rhythm at his Bethesda bistro, which nods in the sun-kissed direction of southern France.
With its Provençal linens, yellow walls, and tables jammed side by side--this isn't the place to divulge state secrets--the dining room feels very French. Taking a spot in the back offers the advantage of overlooking the open kitchen, where Cam is visible and sometimes chats with diners.
What to get: Baby squid with wild mushrooms; clams stuffed with spinach, walnuts, and onion confit; bouillabaisse with scallops and sea bass; hanger steak; roasted-pineapple baba au rhum; lemon galette.
Open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Expensive.