100 Best Restaurants 2012: Corduroy
From soulful bistros to high-gloss steakhouses, there's lots of good eating in DC, Maryland, and Virginia
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Cynthia Hacinli, Ann Limpert, Rina Rapuano
Comments () | Published January 23, 2012
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Corduroy
Address: 1122 Ninth St., NW, Washington, DC 20001
Phone: 202-589-0699
Neighborhood: U Street/Shaw, Downtown
Cuisines: Modern, American
Opening Hours: Open for dinner Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10:30 PM.
Nearby Metro Stops: Mt. Vernon Square/7th St.-Convention Center
Price Range: Expensive
Noise Level: Intimate
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Kabocha-squash soup with cheese crisp; red-snapper bisque; duck-egg-and-leg salad; lamb loin with garlic crépinette and creamed spinach; Muscovy duck with fig sauce; chocolate tart with caramelized bananas; house-made ice creams.
Price Details: Expensive; entrées $20 to $32.
Special Features:
Valet Parking Available

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This restaurant, once hidden in a downtown DC Sheraton, is now only somewhat hidden on a quiet block in Shaw near the Washington Convention Center. Inside, the rowhouse exudes a quiet sophistication--there's no music, the dining room tends to be hushed, and servers are on the serious side.

It's a fitting setting for Tom Power's cooking, which is similarly free of flash. He has the confidence to be straightforward--unusual at a time when many chefs concoct dishes that sound like science experiments--putting out a simple, beautifully roasted capon and the same chocolate-banana tart he's been making for years. Surprises reveal themselves slowly. The best examples are his complexly layered soups. If we see one on the menu, we order it. The $65 five-course tasting menu is an excellent value.

What to get: Beet salad with goat cheese; cauliflower-and-Parmesan soup; rare tuna with seaweed salad and sushi rice; scallops in any preparation; antelope with chestnut purée; chocolate sabayon, a baked chocolate dessert somewhere between custard and a soufflé.

Open Monday through Saturday for dinner. Expensive.

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/23/2012 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews