Like the familiar bistro dishes it turns out—often flawlessly—Jeffrey Buben’s restaurant in Capitol Hill’s Hotel George has a classy, timeless feel. The cushy booths in the golden-lit dining room attract a tony crowd: Law-firm partners woo recruits with Châteauneuf-du-Pape and escargot forestière while prep-school kids in striped ties dig politely into steak frites and pots of mussels under the approving gaze of well-coifed parents. In the era of linenless tables and cocktails in Mason jars, Bis carries the torch for a spiffier dining era—without seeming stuffy or out of style.
Don’t miss: Frisée salad with lardons; onion soup; oysters gratin Florentine; salmon with Brussels sprouts, bacon, and cranberries; beef bourguignon; apple tart.
Open: Monday through Friday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for breakfast, brunch, and dinner. Very expensive.