Our affection for this bistro derives in part from its lived-in soulfulness, which calls to mind the great neighborhood restaurants in New Orleans. A meal in the cozy confines of the dining room is somehow more than the elements that make up the plate.
Which isn’t to say those elements aren’t fine in their own right. Chef/owner John Manolatos apprenticed for years under founder Ann Cashion and is a stickler for butchering his own meats and trolling markets for what’s in season. He incorporates a sometimes-too-wide set of influences—French, Japanese, Indian, Greek—to keep things fresh. But his best dishes, such as a spit-roasted goat with grilled flatbread, feel as timeless as the restaurant. On weekends, the top-notch brunch is one of the best ways to appreciate Adams Morgan in the light of day.
Don’t miss: Mezzethakia (an assortment of dips); foie gras with poached pear; spice-rubbed rib eye; whole dorade; smashed fingerlings with garlic aïoli; chocolate-and-caramel tart.
Open: Tuesday through Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Expensive.