What must it feel like to be Rob Weland—to watch as younger, lesser lights garner TV time and you, a passionate, accomplished chef, fly under the radar of the food scene?
It’s a testament to Weland’s character that he appears content to stay in his kitchen, tend his herb garden, and send out some of the most exciting plates in Washington. As at Poste, where he manned the kitchen for seven years, Weland aims for clean presentations and flavors that pop—as with his gnudi, whose cheesy richness is tempered with a gentle, vegetal sweetness (in summer a vibrant green-pea purée, in cooler months a mélange of chanterelles and corn). The all-Euro wine list is one of the best in the area, full of great finds and delicious obscurities.
Don’t miss: Chicken-liver bruschetta; avocado crostini; carrot-and-Marcona-almond salad; hamachi with grapefruit; wood-roasted goat; lamb belly with fava-bean pesto; warm brioche sandwich with prosciutto and fontina; goat-cheese cake.
Open: Tuesday through Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.