So what if there are no crusty waiters, the sandwiches aren’t packed to the rafters, and they won’t serve you chopped liver and tongue in one sandwich? Here’s what’s also missing: packaged meats, Wonder-soft bread, and pickles from a jar.
Taking its place among a new generation of artisanal delis that have popped up in Brooklyn, Portland, and San Francisco, DGS bids to bring corned beef and knishes out of the Sysco age by embracing the from-scratch values that reigned a century ago.
Chef Barry Koslow, who impressed at Mendocino Grille and Tallula, has lightened the rib-sticking dishes of Ashkenazi Jews without sacrificing their character. The pastrami is sliced thick in the style of Montreal’s legendary smoked meat, the matzo-ball soup is superior to any bubbe’s we know, and the chopped liver finds the seam between the overrich deli classic and a good pâté. And no old-school deli has a wine or cocktail list half this good.
Don’t miss: Borscht; pickle plate; latkes; kreplach; Schmutzy Fries, with smoked meat, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing, and sauerkraut; almond-sprinkled doughnuts; babka bread pudding.
Open: Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.
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