If you were looking for a primer on dining trends, you could hardly do better than this big-city twist on the farm-to-table restaurant. The dining room is a paean to Americana with its artfully artless display of crockery, while the tattooed staff and pumped-up comfort foods signal an operation as up-to-the-moment as an Instagram pic.
The fun is in cobbling together a meal that might induce whiplash—moving from the North (duck-liver-gravy poutine) to the South (fried pimiento cheese) to the South of France (bone marrow with toasts)—or indulging in Scot Harlan’s winking mash-ups, such as Kung Pao sweetbreads or pork ribs in Buffalo sauce and blue-cheese fondue. Don’t miss: Crispy pig taco; cornbread with maple butter; Parker House rolls; rabbit cake; roast chicken; butterscotch pudding; banana cream cake; pie of the day. Open: Monday and Wednesday through Friday for dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.