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Who wouldn’t be skeptical of a suburban restaurant that charges upward of $20 for entrées and looks to be housed in a ’60s-era doughnut shop? And the menu’s crazy quilt of influences—Korean, Thai, Americana, Mediterranean, and Moroccan—doesn’t do much to convince you to chance it. But you should. Chef/owner Tim Ma doesn’t take shortcuts and puts his heart into everything he sends out. His rendition of shrimp and grits could persuade a Louisianan that the chef grew up in Bayou Country. A bowl of mussels in a saffron-coconut broth bests the work of most Thai kitchens. And pork-fried rice tastes like what a Chinese or Korean chef whips up when he’s off his shift. Don’t miss: Crème fraîche chicken wings with Korean chili paste; scallops with coconut-scallion risotto; braised beef cheek; whole branzino; beer-battered fries; chocolate dumplings; yuzu-lime pie; mochi. Open: Monday for dinner, Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.
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