At this low-key pizzeria, in a bandbox of a space near Catholic University, the sparsely topped Neapolitan-style pies are—at their best—models of lightness, freshness, and balance. The gorgeous crusts narrow to a razor’s edge in the center and poof like a balloon on the perimeter. Pizzaiolo Ettore Rusciano repurposes some of his dough to make excellent sandwiches,among them a variation on ham and cheese (prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella) stuffed inside lightly charred flatbread. The well-curated beer list, which features 20 independent brews, is worth exploring. Don’t miss: Affetata (a plate of cured meats, cheeses, and olives); pizzas: Tacchino (smoked turkey, mushrooms), Bianca (porcinis, Parmesan, prosciutto cotto), Di Ettore (cherry tomatoes, arugula, prosciutto); tiramisu; orange sorbet. Open: Monday and Wednesday for dinner, Thursday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive.
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