There are menus you open and say to yourself: I want one of everything. Then there are those you read over and over again because no item compels you. Put the Atlas Room in the narrow category of restaurants that deliver more on the plate than they appear to promise in their description.
Chefs Matt Cordes and Bobby Beard demonstrate an uncanny ability to reanimate a preparation you may have tired of years ago. Who eats stuffed red peppers anymore? We do, after sampling their rendition, which features quinoa and a carrot-cumin sauce. What trendy bistro isn’t featuring lamb Bolognese? Their springy fettuccine doused with rustic meat sauce and finished with a dollop of ricotta is a standout—pure comfort on a winter’s night. Not unlike this charmer of a restaurant.
Don’t miss: Lamb meatballs; Amish summer pie; roasted chicken with roasted potato and mushrooms; chilled seared tuna; ricotta fritters.
Open: Daily for dinner. Expensive.