Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly
After blowing hot and cold over the years, chef/owner Tracy O’Grady’s kitchen is on fire again. The roster unfolds with dishes earthy (foie gras and truffles gild many plates) and ethereal (savory mousses seem spun from air). O’Grady has always been a whiz at the fryer—a legacy from her days at the recently shuttered Kinkead’s. Then there’s her flair for flavor pairings: Cauliflower bisque doubles in intensity from a hit of goat cheese, and duck confit and duck sausage are winningly married with creamy leeks on crisp flatbread. Co-owner/pastry chef Kate Jansen whips up grown-up sweets—including to-go bags of cookies—that make you feel like a kid. The separate bar draws neighborhood folks for more casual fare (prosciutto-and-fontina fritters, swordfish tacos). Don’t miss: Gougères with truffle butter; deviled eggs; fried chicken stuffed with foie gras mousse; tempura-fried crabcakes; sausage-crusted rack of pork; Brussels sprouts with bacon; bourbon-chocolate pudding cake with salted-caramel ice cream. Open: Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner. Expensive.
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