The young woman behind the counter might look the part of the dutiful daughter pitching in to help her busy parents, but Jennifer Nguyen, all of 24, runs the place.

That’s not the only way Tay Do, now in a good spot on the outer ring of the Eden Center, flips the script. Unlike most of its neighbors’, the dining room is dramatic and bold, with chandeliers and swaths of vibrant color courtesy of Nguyen’s father, Johnson, and brother, Barry. Mother Suan handles the cooking, and her range and skill are on display in every section of the nearly 200-item menu.

Where to start? The Vietnamese sausage rolls—mint, vegetables, and warm sausage packed into a tight rice wrapper—are so good, you’ll be tempted to order another round. Curb the impulse: Beautifully turned-out rice crepes also beckon. So do the meals in a bowl called bun, cold vermicelli noodles topped with grilled shrimp, pork, or sausages. A broken-rice dish with grilled pork, shredded pork, and pork loaf yields a variety of intensities and textures, the grilled pork a smoky bite of barbecue, the loaf almost a terrine, soft and assertively spiced.

The pho surpasses the efforts of most pho parlors, spicy hot pots teem with veggies and seafood, and the excellent congee includes a delicate, soothing version with ginger, shrimp, and crab stick.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.