The roomy table in the corner near the pastry case is where you’ll find Austrian owner (and real-estate mogul) Anthony Lanier relaxing over coffee and an Esterhazy, a cream-filled, almond-and-hazelnut pastry.

Lanier’s walk down memory lane is everyone’s gain: You can sip Verlangerter (Austrian coffee) beside the mini fountain outside or indulge in crisp veal schnitzel and almond-cream-and-raspberry-jam-filled linzertorte at one of the white-and-chrome tables.

Along the way are diversions like Kasnocken, a mac-and-cheese–like casserole of spaetzle and Emmentaler topped with crunchy onions; a stylish smoked trout salad; and for heartier souls, knackwurst with red cabbage and potato dumplings.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.