June 2005

Cheap and chic aren't always compatible, but this Thai eatery is both. Stylish light fixtures, wood carvings, and fresh flowers make for an eye-catching dining room, and prices belie the artsy plates and quality ingredients found in dishes classic or creative. Spicy Thai salads--we like the grilled beef with lemongrass and chilies--are beautifully done, as are crispy spring rolls with savory bits of chicken and carrot in every bite. Be on the lookout for an occasional special of plump chive dumplings, a Thai delicacy.

The restaurant is known for its deep-fried dishes, most notably one made with duck. Equally good is the whole-fish preparation with garlic and chilies. Curry fans will want to dip into spicy red duck curry or gaeng keow wan, a tasty seafood stew with green chili and coconut. For the noodle crowd, there's pad Thai and savory pad see eew, made with chewy, ultra-wide noodles. Mango with sticky rice is the classic finish.