It has the sound of an indie band, but Burmese Farluda is a dessert—and a spectacular one at that. Ice cream, shredded coconut, pistachios, pudding, and thin noodles are layered parfait-style. It’s reason enough to check out this appealing Loudoun County restaurant done up with ornate tapestries and hand-painted tableware.

The expansive menu offers lots of other reasons, from crisp split-pea fritters flecked with parsley and onion to a pair of marvelous pork dishes, one with fresh mango, the other a fatty slab of pork belly stir-fried with cilantro, scallions, and red chilies. In between are quieter plates: a salad of shredded pickled ginger studded with sesame seeds and dried broad beans (reminiscent of wasabi peas without the heat); a gingery stew of shrimp and fresh pumpkin; and simple chicken cooked in coconut cream to be ladled over rice or noodles.

And to finish, that farluda.