100 Best Restaurants 2008: Cafe Atlantico

Reviewed by Todd Kliman , Cynthia Hacinli , Ann Limpert , Dave McIntyre

No. 94: Cafe Atlantico

Cafe Atlantico

405 Eighth St., NW
Washington, DC 20004
Phone: 202-393-0812

Cuisines:
Nuevo Latino, South American, Dim Sum

Opening Hours:

Wheelchair Accessible:
Yes

Nearby Metro Stops:
Archives-Navy Memorial
Gallery Place-Chinatown

Price Range:
Expensive

Dress:
Upscale Casual

Noise Level:
Chatty

Reservations:
Recommended

Special Features:
Party Space, Weekend Brunch

Website:
Click here to open in new window.

Best Dishes
Foie gras soup; conch fritters; shrimp with corn puree and corn nuts; seared salmon with papaya-vanilla oil; duck confit with pinenuts; deconstructed feijoada with pork belly; tres leches cake; dessert "pina colada"; pineapple caipirinha; salt-and-lime "air" -topped margarita.

Price Details:
Lunch appetizers, $8 to $12; entrees, $10 to $14.
Dinner appetizers, $8 to $15; entrees, $19 to $26.
Pre-theater menu, $30.07.
Five-course tasting menu, $65.

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Cuisine: Chef José Andrés made his name at this Nuevo Latino restaurant, the only spot in his mini-empire that doesn’t focus on small plates. Katsuya Fukushima now mans the open kitchen, but the fanciful deconstructions and playful spins on South American classics are all Andrés-approved.

Mood: Three spiraling levels of color-splashed dining rooms centered around a busy open kitchen and booming with peppy merengue should lift anyone’s spirits. But beware the early-evening traffic jam when the pretheater crowd jostles for tables with after-workers in search of a guacamole fix.

Best for: Festive dinners, working lunches, postshow or postgame drinks and dessert.

Best dishes: Foie-gras soup; conch fritters bursting with liquid at each bite; shrimp with corn purée and corn nuts; seared salmon scented with papaya-vanilla oil; duck confit with pine nuts and pumpkin seeds; deconstructed feijoada with pork belly; a marvelous tres leches cake; a layered “piña colada”; pineapple caipirinha; salt-and-lime-“air”-topped margarita.

Insider tips: The $30.07 three-course menu served nightly between 5 and 6:30 is one of the best pretheater bets around. And the Latino dim-sum weekend brunch, with ideas from the Minibar menu, is one of the area’s best weekend feasts.

Service: ••