From June 2004

Each of our top steakhouses, as Robert Shoffner pointed out in his comprehensive report in the October issue, has its specialty. At the Prime Rib, it's the bone-in rib eye. At the Palm, it's the New York strip. At Bobby Van's, it's the porterhouse, USDA Prime beef, dry-aged for six weeks, cooked to order, sliced in the kitchen, and reassembled on its bone. If you plan to order it, go with a dining companion or two and a healthy appetite--it's available for two, three, or four persons.

A good steak demands good sides. Chef Cris Benson's hash browns are beautifully crusted, the cottage fries crisp, and the spinach rich and creamy. If you're not in the mood for steak, the braised short ribs or the lamb shank, both long-cooked and richly flavored, are good alternatives.

One caveat: Service at Bobby Van's can be flawless, but there have complaints about negligent waiters and about mistakes from the kitchen that no one seemed particularly concerned about setting right.