Cuisine: An unabashed paean to beef, with phone-book-size portions of the titular dish and generous prime cuts of New York strip and bone-in rib eye.

Mood: In an age of the vanishing maître d’ and relaxed dress codes, this elegant K Street retreat remains a staunch defender of formality. In the leopard-print-carpeted lounge, jackets and ties are musts for dinner, all the waiters wear bow ties, and the piano stylings evoke a supper club.

Best for: A grand night out that revolves around getting dolled up, feasting on beef, and clinking glasses of Champagne.

Best dishes: Well-shucked oysters on the half shell; prime rib in 24- or 40-ounce portions; crab cakes; luxurious crab imperial; rich, dense cheesecake.

Insider tips: Yes, the restaurant’s reputation rests on the prime rib, but the crab cake, light on binder and heavy on jumbo lump, is every bit its equal—and among the better versions you’ll find. Those looking for a touch of comfort in an upscale setting will be happy that Thursday’s menu features turkey and dressing.

Service: ••½