Cuisine: High-quality food is brought to the fore while expensive frills and trappings of luxury dining are done away with. The menu takes off in different directions—now Italian, now French or British. A recent menu took on a Southern accent.

Mood: This cozy boîte opened two years ago and immediately took a place among Bethesda’s top dining spots. The action is on the plate. Mirrors struggle to create a sense of spaciousness in the narrow dining room, and the church-pew banquette and booths can detract from your enjoyment of the food. The back dining room offers a view into the kitchen—but you mainly see the chefs’ heads.

Best for: Salad and pasta lovers for the pristine greens and hand-cut noodles.

Best dishes: Rich and creamy oyster stew with chives; salad with perfectly fried green tomatoes and cornmeal-crusted oysters; hand-cut fettuccine with wild-mushroom ragu; pink-grapefruit sabayon gratinée.

Insider tips: The best meal is salad, pasta, and dessert. Recent entrées included a wan loup de mer. Missing were Craig’s two early dazzlers, “duck three ways” and “chicken two ways.” The wine list is disappointing, with a thin selection and big markups.

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