Cuisine: Eclectic American with strong, rooted flavors built on conscientious shopping and craftsmanship in the kitchen. Chef/owner Pedro Matamoros developed his approach at the Tabard Inn, where he manned the stoves for seven years before opening his own place in Silver Spring this fall.

Mood: Given the prices, the sparely appointed storefront restaurant and bar may come as a letdown. But it doesn’t lack for sophistication and warmth, thanks to a smart waitstaff and thoughtful touches throughout. The focus is on the plate—not unlike its scaled-back neighbor, Ray’s the Classics, another independent in a sea of chains in downtown Silver Spring.

Best for: Marylanders who don’t want to travel far for interesting cooking.

Best dishes: Oysters on the half shell with mignonette; rillettes; spicy butternut-squash-and-coconut soup with toasted coconut and micro-cilantro; warm fig tart with goat cheese and arugula; hand-rolled tagliatelle with rich lamb Bolognese and Pecorino; coriander-crusted lamb chops with lamb sausage; braised veal cheeks with parsnip purée; creamy bread pudding.

Insider tips: The kitchen does some of its best work early on, so putting together a meal of appetizers can be more rewarding than ordering an appetizer and an entrée. Terrines, pastas (available in half portions), and rillettes are all house-made.

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