100 Best Restaurants 2008: Nicaro

Reviewed by Todd Kliman , Cynthia Hacinli , Ann Limpert , Dave McIntyre

No. 75: Nicaro

Nicaro

8229 Georgia Ave.
Silver Spring/Takoma Park, MD 20910
Phone: 301-588-2867

Cuisines:
American, Modern

Wheelchair Accessible:
Yes

Nearby Metro Stops:
Silver Spring

Price Range:
Moderate

Dress:
Upscale Casual

Noise Level:
Intimate

Reservations:
Recommended

Special Features:
Weekend Brunch

Website:
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Best Dishes
Any of the pates and terrines; rillettes; oysters on the half shell; fig tart with goat cheese; butternut-squash-and-coconut soup; roast quail; deep-fried Camembert with red-wine-poached pears; mixed grill of lamb leg, house-made sausage, and chop; tagliatelle with lamb Bolognese; veal cheeks with parsnip puree; short ribs with polenta; berry crumble; bread pudding.

Price Details:
Dinner starters, $7 to $11; main courses, $18 to $28.


Cuisine: Eclectic American with strong, rooted flavors built on conscientious shopping and craftsmanship in the kitchen. Chef/owner Pedro Matamoros developed his approach at the Tabard Inn, where he manned the stoves for seven years before opening his own place in Silver Spring this fall.

Mood: Given the prices, the sparely appointed storefront restaurant and bar may come as a letdown. But it doesn’t lack for sophistication and warmth, thanks to a smart waitstaff and thoughtful touches throughout. The focus is on the plate—not unlike its scaled-back neighbor, Ray’s the Classics, another independent in a sea of chains in downtown Silver Spring.

Best for: Marylanders who don’t want to travel far for interesting cooking.

Best dishes: Oysters on the half shell with mignonette; rillettes; spicy butternut-squash-and-coconut soup with toasted coconut and micro-cilantro; warm fig tart with goat cheese and arugula; hand-rolled tagliatelle with rich lamb Bolognese and Pecorino; coriander-crusted lamb chops with lamb sausage; braised veal cheeks with parsnip purée; creamy bread pudding.

Insider tips: The kitchen does some of its best work early on, so putting together a meal of appetizers can be more rewarding than ordering an appetizer and an entrée. Terrines, pastas (available in half portions), and rillettes are all house-made.

Service: ••