This fall, vaunted chef Gerard Pangaud said he’d give a for-the-masses overhaul to his rarefied dining room, Gerard’s Place. So far, though, the biggest change is the restaurant’s new name (entrées still hover around $30). Problem is, the cooking has become less precise. One winter night’s cold pâté en croûte was followed by a filet of halibut that had been rubberized in the oven and egregiously oversalted.
This appeared in the February, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.