The menu at this brick-walled cafe is divided between Euro-fusion—chef Bart Vandaele’s spins on his native Belgian cuisine—and classic Flemish dishes. The latter are better: mustardy potato croquettes, sweet-sour beef stew with braised cabbage, and mussels steamed in ale. The list of draft and bottled beers is long and well considered—one interesting choice is Kasteel Rouge, a cherry-flavored beer that’s not so sweet that you’d mistake it for dessert.
-March, 2008
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