Given the decor—a plain-Jane dining room and a less expensive upstairs lounge that looks as thrown together as a frat-house den—you might think the cooking here is tossed off, too. Not so. Chef/co-owner Orlando Hitzig pays close attention to details. The bread basket is served with regular butter plus such other spreads as pear butter and beet purée. The romaine in the Caesar salad gets a smoky kick from a quick wilting on the grill. And though the dining-room menu is ambitious, it’s the comfort classics we keep returning for: creamy, lager-accented tomato soup, a hand-ground burger, a light-on-filler crab-cake sandwich—all simple but sure-handed.
-March, 2008
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