On weekdays, the downtown DC lunch crowd flocks to this 65-year-old restaurant, its two dining rooms and glass-enclosed sunroom done up in wine bottles dripping with candle wax. The well-crafted pizza—salt lovers should get it topped with green olives—is gooey with cheese and less greasy than most. You’ll also find hearty versions of Italian-American standbys: ricotta-laden lasagna, fried calamari with marinara, and linguine with white clam sauce.
-March, 2008
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