Brunch is loud and festive at this Clarendon funhouse, where a maze of dining areas includes a Jimmy Buffett–style “sand bar” filled with beachy knickknacks. Skip the warmed-over buffet, with its questionable mix of everything from fried chicken and meatballs to eggs and waffles, and order from the menu of breakfast standards. Garlicky home fries accompany overstuffed omelets and eggs Nova Scotia piled with smoked salmon. Craving carbs? Try the airy pancakes or house-made apple-cinnamon oatmeal.
-March, 2008
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