Why go: The richly layered curries—their heat gentle and insistent, never overpowering—will make you forget about the plain digs and sometimes-surly service.

What to get: A hearty version of the eggplant stew baingan barta; the best malai kofta in the area, the soft veggie dumplings bound in a velvety almond gravy; bright, tangy chicken tikka masala, its gravy vivified by a dollop of tomato paste; incendiary lamb vindaloo; Kashmiri naan, its surface studded with almonds and cherries.

Best for: Vegetarians and diners seeking complex, often luxurious cooking.

Insider tip: Ordering takeout—the preference of many customers during the week—can be a challenge; call ahead 45 minutes or more.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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