Why go: The name has it wrong; it’s really the sides—the fluffy, buttered rice sprinkled with brick-colored sumac and the hot, heavenly rounds of blistered bread—that inspire the devotion of Moby’s legions of regulars.

What to get: The juicy, assertively seasoned kabob e kubideh, so tender you can cut it with a plastic fork; grilled swordfish kebab; satiny and garlicky hummus.

Best for: A complete and affordable pre- or postmovie dinner.

Insider tip: Don’t order until fresh disks of bread have been mounted on the wall.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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