Why go: The area’s best dim sum—the late-morning weekend repast of steamed buns, dumplings, and little dishes, best taken with tea. During the week, the Hong Kong–style casseroles and soups are a respite from the generic, oversauced dishes found in too many Chinese restaurants.

What to get: Beyond the dim sum, a fluffy omelet filled with anchovy; butterflied shrimp in a creamy wasabi sauce; excellent shrimp-dumpling soup; a greaseless stir-fry of shrimp in a zesty black-pepper sauce; wonderful steamed ling fish, the sweet meat wisely partnered with a soy-based dipping sauce and thin strips of ginger.

Best for: Anyone looking to entertain a large group, and the culinarily adventurous—those for whom going out for Chinese can encompass a range of new tastes and flavors.

Insider tip: Arrive early for dim sum, which lasts from 10:30 to 3; the best fare is often gone by 1. The takeout menu is heavy on often unconvincing Chinese-American cooking. If you want carryout, ask to order from the regular menu.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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