One of the area's last holdouts of Continental cuisine, Ferdinand's offers hits spanning several decades, from prime rib ($16.95 and up) to a bar-and-grill-style plate of fried calf's liver with sautéed onions. In-between are a juicy half chicken Greek-style with lemon, garlic, and oregano; veal piccata; and chicken Françese, also a welcome throwback.

Another happy surprise: fresh beets in a tangy vinaigrette at the otherwise ho-hum salad bar and an early-bird special for $10.95. Simpler is usually better here--avoid concoctions like Norfolk crab, one of the pricier dishes and a waste of crab.

Ferdinand's, 11300 Fern St.; 301-949-1617. Atmosphere: More upscale than most Wheaton restaurants with a roomy dining room, cloth napkins, and an energetic owner/maître d'. Entrées: $10.95 to $32.95 (for surf and turf). Bottom line: Retro pleasure for diners after a good old prime rib with a baked potato and sour cream. Open daily for lunch and dinner.