This rustic-chic seafood shop, which looks like the kind of place Martha Stewart might drop in on, made its name with its fresh-fish counter. And while you’ll still find high-quality cuts of swordfish and halibut, the store now devotes equal space and attention to prepared entrées and sides.

The biggest draw is potato rolls overstuffed with fresh lobster salad made with just enough mayo and celery ($14)—especially good with a side of the terrific, sweet-tangy cider-vinegar slaw ($3.99 a pound). But some standards were disappointing: The lump crab in the much-hyped, paprika-sprinkled “Cadillac” crab cakes ($11.95 each) had a whiff of fishiness, and the spiced shrimp ($23.99 a pound) were too salty. Our advice? Order confidently from the fish cases and carefully from the traiteur.

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