Comments () | Published October 18, 2006
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Address: 1990 M St., NW, Washington, DC 20036
Phone: 202-659-1990
Neighborhood: Dupont Circle, Downtown
Cuisines: An example of a traditional Southern meal is deep fried chicken, field peas, turnip greens, cornbread, sweet tea and a dessert that could be a pie (sweet potato, pecan and peach are traditional southern pies), or a cobbler (peach, blackberry or mixed berry are traditional cobblers)., Modern, American
Opening Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 to 2:30. Open for dinner Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 9:30, Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 10. Closed on Sundays during the summer, but after Labor Day dinner will be served Sundays 5 to 9.
Nearby Metro Stops: Farragut North, Dupont Circle
Price Range: Very expensive
Dress: Business Attire
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Shrimp ā€™nā€™ grits; lemon chess pie; Reuben with pork belly; burger; sweet wreckfish; Dover sole.

2006 100 Very Best Restaurants

THE SCENE. Though not so distinctively Southern after its makeover--whither the lovingly elaborated onion theme?--the subterranean dining room has never looked more cheerful or contemporary--a fitting setting for Jeffrey and Sallie Buben's Modern Southern cuisine, which remains very popular with patrons of all backgrounds and sensibilities.

WHAT YOU'LL LOVE. Smart, careful cooking that goes well beyond fried chicken and grits; gracious service; and a thoughtful, imaginative wine list that's among the top five in the area. And you won't find a better happy hour in town than the one in the bar from 5 to 7 weeknights: 20 wines by the glass under $7 plus a raft of free and bargain-priced nibbles.

WHAT YOU WON'T. The lack of natural light can induce a little claustrophobia. And every so often the cooking slides off track, veering from hearty simplicity into gooey, cheesy indistinction.

BEST DISHES. Shrimp and grits, a model of the genre; the sinfully rich Southern Cassoulet with pork belly, jowl, loin, and sausage; almost any of the sides, particularly the delectable greens with bacon and onions; a wonderfully tart lemon chess pie.

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Posted at 09:27 PM/ET, 10/18/2006 RSS | Print | Permalink | Restaurant Reviews