Cheap Eats 2007: Costa Verde
Comments () | Published July 12, 2007
Costa Verde
Address: 946 N. Jackson St., Arlington, VA 22201
Phone: 703-522-6976
Neighborhood: Arlington, Arlington, Clarendon/Courthouse
Cuisines: South American, Seafood, Peruvian
Opening Hours: Open Monday through Thursday 11 to 10; Friday 11 to 11; Saturday 10 to 11; Sunday 9 to 9.
Nearby Metro Stops: Virginia Square-GMU, Clarendon
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Not Needed
Best Dishes Ceviches; shrimp soup; crispy whole fried fish; octopus and calamari sauteed in white wine; tres leches cake; pisco sour.
Price Details: Appetizers $4 to $7.95, entrées $9.95 to $17.95.

From the sign outside—you can not enter with a muscle shirt—you’d think it was a biker joint. Instead, it’s a family place where Latino kids endure hair-tousling by relatives sipping cerveza or Inca Kola (it tastes a little like vanilla bubble gum) as heaping plates of Peruvian comfort food roll out of the kitchen.

This is a starch-loving, meat-and-two-potatoes cuisine that leans on onions and peppers for kick. Shrimp- and scallop-packed picante de mariscos (which comes with rice and potatoes) is creamy, not spicy, and a plate of short ribs minimizes its aromatic cilantro sauce, but both dishes are still good. And the cooking is full of welcome surprises, including the sweet conch in the fresh ceviche.

The canned Peruvian whistle music can sound like a mosquito in your ear, but there are no muscle shirts.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Subscribe to Washingtonian
Posted at 09:34 AM/ET, 07/12/2007 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews