100 Best Restaurants 2008: Black Market
No. 44: Black Market
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Cynthia Hacinli, Dave McIntyre
Comments () | Published January 1, 2008
100 Best Restaurants 2012 100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Black Market Bistro
Address: 4600 Waverly Ave., Kensington/Garrett Park, MD 20896
Phone: 301-933-3000
Neighborhood: Rockville, Kensington/Garrett Park
Cuisines: Modern, Breakfast, American
Opening Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11 to 2:30; Saturday 11 to 2:30. Open for dinner Monday through Thursday 5 to 9; Friday and Saturday 5 to 9:30; Sunday 5 to 8. Open for brunch Sunday 10 to 2.
Nearby Metro Stops: White Flint
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Cornmeal-fried oysters with tartar sauce; roast chicken; barbecue shrimp over corn-studded grits; wood-grilled hanger steak with chimichurri; fried-onion-topped cheeseburger; apple crisp; potato latkes and orange-vanilla French toast at brunch.
Price Details: Lunch appetizers, $4 to $9; entrées, $8 to $14. Dinner appetizers, $7 to $12; entrées, $9 to $25. Brunch entrées, $10 to $14.

Cuisine: Generously portioned comfort food that bears a creative touch, minds the seasons, and never takes shortcuts: The duck confit, the cured salmon, even the dollop of applesauce with the brunchtime latkes are all house-made.

Mood: Jeff and Barbara Black’s stylishly comfortable restaurant lays on the charm with paintings of turnips and asparagus and, on some warm nights on the porch, a jazz trio interrupted only by the whistle of a nearby freight train. Garrison Keillor couldn’t have imagined it better.

Best for: Impromptu family dinners, leisurely Sunday brunch, capping off a long day with comfort food.

Best dishes: Cornmeal-fried oysters; plump mussels with tomato and herbs; barbecue shrimp over grits studded with sweet corn; wood-grilled hanger steak with chimichurri; a roasted half-chicken smothered in herbs and served with just-buttery-enough whipped potatoes; a good and messy cheeseburger with fried onions; orange-infused crème brûlée; caramel-drizzled apple crisp.

Insider tips: At some places, brunch is a sly way to get rid of leftovers (beware of lobster omelets). Not here: The menu is carefully planned and executed, from the fresh pastries to the applewood-smoked bacon.

Service: ••

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/01/2008 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews