100 Best Restaurants 2011: Jesse Wong's Asean Bistro
Comments () | Published January 20, 2011
100 Best Restaurants (2011)

Jesse Wong's Asean Bistro
Address: 8775 Centre Park Dr., Columbia, MD 21045
Phone: 410-772-5300
Neighborhood: Columbia
Cuisines: Vegetarian/Vegan, Sushi, Pan-Asian
Opening Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11 to 3; Saturday noon to 3. Open for dinner Monday through Thursday 3 to 10; Friday and Saturday 3 to 11; Sunday noon to 10. Open for brunch Sunday noon to 2:30.
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: N/A
Reservations: Not Needed

Only the top 40 restaurants were ranked in 2011's Best Restaurants list.

As if the concept of Asian fusion weren’t dubious enough, the misspelling “Asean” is likely to bring out the skeptic in many diners. But chef Jesse Wong is more traditionalist than tinkerer, upscaling his plates primarily by relying on higher-quality meats and fishes than most noodle houses and by displaying a sure hand with stir-fries.

The sprawling menu comprises many genres (Cantonese, Szechuan, Malaysian, Burmese) and cooking styles (dim sum, curries, noodle dishes, banquet presentations), affording diners a variety of possible experiences. You can eat lightly on small plates, such as wontons in red oil and chicken in lettuce cups, or have a special-occasion blowout featuring either of two showstoppers: tea-smoked duck with steamed buns or Peking duck with pancakes. The setting, with low lights and comfortable chairs, is more restrained than the name suggests.

Also good: Hot-and-sour soup; Kowloon shrimp; black-pepper shrimp.

Open daily for lunch and dinner. Moderate.

>> See all of 2011's Best Restaurants

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/20/2011 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews