Subscribe Now »

Special Holiday Deal

Give the Gift of the

Give one person a magazine subscription for $29.95, and get each additional subscription for just $19.95.

Cheap Eats 2011: Pimento Grill
Comments () | Published August 16, 2011
Cheap Eats 2011
Pimento Grill
Address: 4405 Bowen Rd., Washington, DC 20019
Phone: 202-582-6595
Cuisines: Caribbean
Price Range: Inexpensive
Dress: Business Attire
Noise Level: N/A
Reservations: Not Needed

What makes this three-stool operation special? It's not the jerk chicken or the oxtail stew, though both are marvelous. It's the cabbage and yellow rice--afterthoughts at most Jamaican eateries. Here the cabbage is gently steamed, lightly crunchy, subtly flavorful; the rice arrives in fluffy grains.

This is island cooking of care and detail. You notice it in the soft hunks of oxtail, still pink on the inside; in the curries, which possess a depth that comes only from slow cooking; and in the jerk chicken, which isn't just a vehicle for heat but has a vinegary bite--the meat has the succulence of great barbecue.

Unlike the syrupy sweet libations at most Caribbean joints, drinks here find the seam between sweet and strong--especially the cucumber-ginger juice. A splash of gin and you'd also have a fabulous cocktail.

Also good: Vegetable stew; roti with goat curry; brown-stew fish; fish escoveich (with a tangy marinade of onions, vinegar, carrots, and Scotch-bonnet chilies).

Open Monday through Saturday for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Subscribe to Washingtonian
Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 08/16/2011 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews