100 Best Restaurants 2012: Black Market Bistro
From soulful bistros to high-gloss steakhouses, there's lots of good eating in DC, Maryland, and Virginia
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Cynthia Hacinli, Ann Limpert, Rina Rapuano
Comments () | Published January 23, 2012
100 Best Restaurants 2012 100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Black Market Bistro
Address: 4600 Waverly Ave., Kensington/Garrett Park, MD 20896
Phone: 301-933-3000
Neighborhood: Rockville, Kensington/Garrett Park
Cuisines: Modern, Breakfast, American
Opening Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Friday 11 to 2:30; Saturday 11 to 2:30. Open for dinner Monday through Thursday 5 to 9; Friday and Saturday 5 to 9:30; Sunday 5 to 8. Open for brunch Sunday 10 to 2.
Nearby Metro Stops: White Flint
Price Range: Moderate
Dress: Informal
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Cornmeal-fried oysters with tartar sauce; roast chicken; barbecue shrimp over corn-studded grits; wood-grilled hanger steak with chimichurri; fried-onion-topped cheeseburger; apple crisp; potato latkes and orange-vanilla French toast at brunch.
Price Details: Lunch appetizers, $4 to $9; entrées, $8 to $14. Dinner appetizers, $7 to $12; entrées, $9 to $25. Brunch entrées, $10 to $14.


For many, the word "bistro" calls to mind bent forks, steak frites, and Paris. Jeff and Barbara Black's creaky-porched restaurant couldn't feel farther from France--the wainscotted former post office looks like the setting for a Martha Stewart Living shoot--but it shares an important trait with its European cousins: It excels at simple food done with care--crunchy oysters, parsley-showered mussels, barbecue shrimp. The kitchen's shortcut-free ethos is especially apparent at brunch, when many restaurants go through the motions, turning last night's special into this morning's omelet. Here, fresh-squeezed orange juice and just-baked pastries are a given, and the orange-scented French toast is a reason in itself to come.

What to get: Corn chowder (summer); Thai-style mussels; hanger steak with chimichurri; cheeseburger; roast chicken; apple crisp; potato pancakes with house-made apple sauce (brunch).

Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Moderate.

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