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100 Best Restaurants 2012: Grapeseed
From soulful bistros to high-gloss steakhouses, there's lots of good eating in DC, Maryland, and Virginia
Reviewed By Todd Kliman, Cynthia Hacinli, Ann Limpert, Rina Rapuano
Comments () | Published January 23, 2012
100 Best Restaurants (2011) 100 Best Restaurants 2012 100 Best Restaurants (2010)

Grapeseed
Address: 4865 Cordell Ave., Bethesda, MD 20814
Phone: 301-986-9592
Neighborhood: Bethesda/Glen Echo
Cuisines: Modern, American
Opening Hours: Open Monday through Thursday 5 to 10; Friday and Saturday 5 to 11
Nearby Metro Stops: Bethesda
Price Range: Expensive
Dress: Upscale Casual
Noise Level: Chatty
Reservations: Recommended
Best Dishes Roasted piquillo pepper with goat cheese; fried oysters in beurre blanc; smoked trout with pears and crème fraîche; mushroom fricassee; calamari with chorizo and lemon; lobster in caramel sauce; roasted balsamic chicken; grilled quail; braised short ribs;

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Chef/owner Jeff Heineman presides over this neighborhood haunt--one of the area's first wine bars--lined with smart artwork, well-chosen bottles, and a reliable yet changing lineup of seasonal American dishes with Asian and Latin touches.

The blond-wood dining room has the air of a downtown DC hangout, and the clientele is heavy on families, empty-nesters, and dates. Heineman is in his element with such autumnal ingredients as mushrooms and greens. The tender filet mignon is the only entrée that stays on the menu, but seafood is often more rewarding.

What to get: Red-pea soup with bacon; mushroom fricassee over truffled polenta; fried chicken livers with pepper jelly; almond-crusted triggerfish atop corn chowder; seared scallops over cauliflower and mustard greens; brownie with mint-chip ice cream; Greek yogurt drizzled with honey (a play on cheesecake).

Open Monday for dinner, Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner. Expensive.

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Posted at 12:00 AM/ET, 01/23/2012 RSS | Print | Permalink | Washingtonian.com Restaurant Reviews