There are moments in nearly every meal here--a soup that activates every taste sensor, a salad of Technicolor intensity--that make you think you've never really eaten Thai food before. Suchart and Ladavan Srigatesook don't cut corners. Only when an order is placed do they begin hand-grinding the condiments for their spicy papaya salad or assembling their Floating Market Noodle Soup layer by careful layer. The menu covers a lot of territory, including street foods that conjure a stroll among the night-market stalls of Thailand's big cities.
What to get: Country-pork salad tossed with onion, cilantro, and crushed, toasted rice and drizzled with chili-lime sauce; crispy battered mussels with red-chili dipping sauce; pork kaprow; a superb pad Thai; shrimp in zesty garlic-and-white-pepper sauce.
Open daily for lunch and dinner. Inexpensive.
