At a time when portions at some places seem to be shrinking, this chef-owned spot is intent on making sure you're satisfied. But oversize doesn't mean clunky--these dishes still manage to pull off refinement.
If the vertical garnishes and zigzags of sauces feel passé, the flavors alternate between spot-on renditions of classics--such as a cone of herb-and-cheese gougères--and forward-thinking innovations. Chef Dennis Friedman sometimes slips in an Asian accent, as with an elegant nori-wrapped tuna appetizer. The dining room isn't exciting--the restaurant took over what was once Rock Creek, and renovations didn't enliven it much--but there's enough fun on the plate and in the cocktails.
What to get: Sweet-smoky duck-confit nachos; grass-fed sirloin burger at lunch; bison rib eye rubbed with cocoa nibs; sea bass over udon noodles; surf and turf featuring an outstanding petit filet mignon; crab cakes; prosciutto-studded Pig Brittle; root-beer float with house-made ice cream.
Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for dinner. Expensive.