Once Washington’s undisputed top spot for Neapolitan-style pies, this ever-packed pizzeria now has some competition. But the pizzas continue to please with their springy, charred crusts and such excellent ingredients as the house-made polpettine—Tuscan-style meatballs—that top the Abruzzese pie. But don’t miss the rest of the menu: An orange salad with red onion, olives, and chives is a punchy palate-rouser; grilled rapini is enlivened by garlic and hot pepper. In the menu’s “little things” category lie such treats as croquettes filled with flaky salt cod, sweet-tomato bruschetta, and deviled eggs with an herby green sauce.
Also good: Suppli a telefono (cheese-stuffed rice balls); Margherita pizza; tomato-and-ricotta-stuffed pizza; Vongole pizza, with clams and hot pepper; doughnuts on the weekend.