If you’ve ever attended a Cuban Christmas dinner, you’ve probably feasted on pernil, a homey dish of roast pork shoulder that features tender meat and crisp, garlicky skin. Here it’s done wonderfully, demonstrating yet again that owners Jessica and William Rodriguez understand the mandate of the Cuban restaurant: The food should never be too fine or fussy.
The best plates brim with the values of great homecooking, such as the picadillo (beef-and-potato hash studded with raisins), the lechon (slow-cooked pork shoulder draped in sweet onions), and the excellent black beans and rice. Dessert brings one of the best versions of tres leches around. Resist the cocktail list—the drinks are as thin as the food is full-bodied.
Also good: Ham croquetas; vaca fritta, shredded, pan-fried flank steak; pork masitas.