This tile-lined storefront specializes in hearty all-day breakfasts, Colombian style. The bandeja paisa is the grand slam of the bunch—packing onto the plate a slab of grilled steak along with pork sausage, cracklings, rice, beans, avocado, a cheese arepa, sweet plantains, and a fried egg. In the calentado, a fried egg tops white rice clinging to red beans—it’s a simple, homey pleasure, as is the carrot-and-pea-studded arroz con pollo. An ensalada de aguacate is unremarkable on its own, but the raw vegetables balance out the stick-to-your-bones stuff.
Also good: Cheese-stuffed sweet plantain; arepa con queso, fried corn cakes with mozzarella; chicken and pork tamales.