Meat on a stick is elemental—indeed, it was among the first steps toward humans’ creation of a civilization. Of course, there’s a multitude of ways to mess it up. The best practitioners take the craft seriously, jealously guarding the source of their halal-only meat, the secrets of their marinade, and the length of time the skewers spend over smoldering charcoal.
This restaurant in Silver Spring’s Cloverly neighborhood is no exception. Answers would be nice, but we’ll settle for the glory of these judiciously charred, juicy kebabs—especially the bone-in chicken and lamb chop. A plate of hot rice and fresh-from-the-tandoor rounds of blistered naan make fine companions.
Also good: seekh kebab; chole, a chickpea stew; mango lassi.