You don’t expect to find beauty when you’re hunting for bargain meals, but this strip-mall Peruvian is among the most aesthetically pleasing restaurants in its class. Witness the tiradito—strips of lime-marinated sea bass fanned out like flower petals atop a brilliant yellow-pepper sauce.
Nothing else at Emma Perez’s place is quite so gorgeous, but the power and delicacy of the cooking across the board are stunning. The strong pisco sours and, for dessert, melt-in-your-mouth alfajoresenhance the experience. And you still won’t pay more than you would for a comparable night at TGI Friday’s.
Also good: Ceviche mixto; chupe de camarones, a creamy shrimp soup; anticuchos,grilled beef hearts; aji gallina, shredded chicken in a sauce of garlic, wine, and bread; fried whole trout.